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帥哥爛船翻新,動手能力強的不妨看看

2016-6-29 16:10 · 大杂烩
来自: 湖南

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https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCXbWsGV_cjG3gOsSnNJPVlg

弄了个烂船,船地板,船底,黑水箱,饮水箱,水泵,动力改电机,发动机充电,混动哦。一样样都自己搞,也专业。看他砂轮机切割功夫还不赖,现在到了23节还在修,基本上就是全翻新。

作为修船片子向大家推荐。拍摄剪辑很不错。

無法看到發郵件給船長,他和大家熟悉点,他有办法給轉,



补充内容 (2016-6-29 15:23):
我们的船
“作为幸福并不意味着一切都是完美的。它意味着你已经决定要透过事物的缺陷。“
- 未知
故事

他们说的千里之行,始于足下。对我们来说,而不是一个脚印,把我们的旅程开始了一个飞跃。我们什么都卖,我们并不需要,汽车,电脑,摩托车,家具 - 一切。我们不能卖,我们捐,我们用这笔钱购买了帆船

小舟

我们的船“乌玛”是1972年36皮尔逊“。她既不花哨,价格昂贵,也不便宜,站不住脚的,对我们来说,她是完美的。我们希望与它携带的动机和理性,导致我们买她的第一个地方的名称。她的名字是葡萄牙人1号(UMA)的启发,意思是第一或初级。她是我们的第一步

梦想

对我们来说,“乌玛”不仅仅是一个数量。生活中有许多路可以选择。所有需要的第一步,第一想法,首选站在,引导您在您的旅途。我们希望我们的故事将站在为灵感那些想追求自己的梦想,把他们的第一步,自己去发现,乌玛。



我们的旅程
“这是好事,有一个结束走向旅程;但它是重要的,到底之旅“。

- 海明威
之旅

作为生活雪球一方面进入下,它通常很难当一个结束,下开始描绘。我想你可以说我们的旅程在大学开始的地方大家见面了。欲了解更多的背景有关我们看看我们的进化页面。

虽然我们的目标,愿望和对我们的未来计划,我们知道这些都只是指导方针。对我们来说,它更是享受这个旅程比上行了吧目标。我们完全明白,明天可能都在改变,我们希望随着我们的成长,你会加入我们的行列,发展在过去几年。

我们不作任何承诺,接受与您分享我们的冒险,并有一次一个地狱这样做。加入我们的旅程中,我们会发现我们要去的地方,当我们到达那里。

补充内容 (2016-6-29 15:37):
电动机。 。 。

并不适合每一个人。
“我们还没有使用我们的超过30分钟马达以时间”。
让我们先来看看回来的时候“生产”船成为60年代末70年代初流行的,其目的是使一个便宜的船一般家庭可以负担得起,用有限的航海经验和知识处理。这样一来,他们的要求之一是移动的船在困难情况的能力。这就是“辅机”被创造出来。但是,对于许多人来说,它已成为操纵他们的船的主要手段。是的,有在世界上的地方你不能航行,像巴拿马运河。但是,经常有替代品,你可以航行。

截至今天,2016年5月,我们已经航行超过1000英里的美国东海岸。我们还没有使用我们为30分钟以上马达在一个时间。当我们放下主帆和退缩在我们的锚来设置它的大部分使用自带。我们大部分的帆船已经离岸。但是,我们也航行在ICW最近航行25英里了开普菲尔河北卡罗来纳州威尔明顿。我们已经在许多桥梁航行,对一些确定的时间表,其他按需开启。在任何情况下,我们航行之下。我们已经发现,在具有坚实的计划和耐心等待合适的天气和潮汐是关键。

毕竟,我们拥有自己的帆船。他们是天生就慢。我们不是在匆忙。我们爱的是自给自足的想法。但是,对于那些谁与时间表航行,很短的时间,缺乏耐心的坐在风孔,觉得有必要来驱动他们的船船体速度,享受维护柴油发动机或只是以自己的方式,设置那么电动马达可能不是正确的选择。
一个快速侧面说明:

除非另有说明,我们不属于或任何公司或本网页上的链接都是赞助。他们只是我们发现沿途有帮助的来源,我们只希望与其他人谁可能有兴趣分享。
想要了解更多的...?
当然,我们很乐意为你留下来和阅读此页一路底部,但,我们在前进的道路上许多干扰(即链接)卷起。如果你跑题了不心疼,我们知道你会回来的。

如果你只想先跳英尺万物“电动帆船”电动海洋是一个良好的开端。这是一个伟大的社会资源和功能,让您享受其他一些电动帆船的故事。
 
另一个潜在的巨大资源...
“我的电动船”的:查尔斯马特仕。

虽然这本书是目前我们的亚马逊愿望清单上,我们还没有读过它。但是,这是我们能找到的关于这个问题,并且对于只有15 $只有一个,它看起来很有希望。如果你读它,我们之前做,让我们知道您的想法!
还有疑问?

首先,请继续阅读,我们可以在下面回答这些问题。如果没有,头向电比克论坛,并要求他们在那里。
洪运来 来自: 北京
地址不对呀,打开没有你说的内容
2016-4-17 14:55
alann 楼主 来自: 湖南
屏幕快照 2016-04-17 下午5.28.05.png

这不一样样都分好主题等你找重点,

最下面是买船开始讲,12节视频过来讲到到下水,


还有强烈推荐,点击字幕,再点齿轮,选自动翻译,拉推拉条到底,倒数第二是简体,

就可以进入半看半猜模式,进入幻想式观赏

如果听得懂一点,加上字幕就可以理解大概
2016-4-17 17:36
alann 楼主 来自: 湖南
第二四节,改直轴链接,太棒了,建议大家都看看,
2016-4-17 17:49
信马由缰 来自: 山东
有空也感受感受......
2016-4-27 15:54
zslingan 来自: 广东
我有船在翻新,可发我QQ么,1375924502
2016-6-28 21:36
2016-6-29 15:35
哥在哪里翻新施工,俺木有qq哦,这个是手机号微信吗  详情 回复
alann 楼主 来自: 湖南长沙
zslingan 发表于 2016-6-28 21:36
我有船在翻新,可发我QQ么,1375924502

哥在哪里翻新施工,俺木有qq哦,这个是手机号微信吗
2016-6-29 15:35
alann 楼主 来自: 湖南长沙
吃透了很好改装,
这家伙算雷锋了,啥都高数你



THE MOTOR
你不需要柴油。 。 。

海洋通道。
“我们没有时间表,要求我们使其恢复到上一次的码头。”
很多人都写成,并评论说,电动马达仅用于天水手谁的每一天都不会很远好,你需要一个可靠的柴油发动机长途巡航。但我们认为事实正好相反。因为我们没有一个码头每天晚上绑起来并收取我们的电池,我们依靠航行补给我们的系统。时间越长,我们航行,并多晒太阳,我们得到的更多动力。因为我们没有一个9-5在一个有趣的周末了船上年底回国做,我们没有时间表,要求我们让它回到码头上的时候,不管什么风正在做什么。因此,我们认为,电动马达,这取决于你的帆船造型,可适应任何船。但是,你必须愿意来解决的一个主要退缩,范围。

范围是一个主要的缺点是电动机。但是,有帆船,还有一些适当的航海技术,我们发现,我们真的不需要电机就像我们原来想象。对于那些谁拥有的时间表,混合动力系统的可能性可以很好地工作。它包括一个电力系统的所有优点与加回了柴油或汽油发电机组额定延长驾驶提供足够的动力。一些公司甚至提供一台电动机,像这样的,可以安装在平行于现有的柴油发动机。所以多数驾驶的是与传统的柴油然而对于短时间完成,像码头周围移动时,电驱动可以用来代替。这还采用从纺丝丙捕捉能力,同时帆船,通常被称为“再生”或“再生”的好处。



我们转换为电力。 。 。

开始我们的电机。
电机铭牌(点击放大)
电机铭牌(点击放大)

我们发现在电机上ebay.com,知道这工作,仅此而已。我们选择这个特定的马达的原因有三:

它被评为在4.8KW在36V这是足以满足我们的需求。
这是过度建设用于工业应用。这意味着它有强大的部件,并且容易更换来源刷。
电机花费我们$ 125元!由于这整个“电比克”项目只是一个大的实验中,我们试图在每一个角落,让我们的开销很小。
我们的电机重量为110磅,比其直流无刷兄弟姐妹就像那些在现有的电动船市场上使用相当多的。虽然它可能是一个小的效率较低,其成分是更坚固耐用。它是重负荷,低成本,并提供充足的电力,具有简便且容易找到份为额外的奖励。我们可能会每不得不更换仅部分是8碳刷用电传送到电机电枢(即在内侧旋转的部分)。根据用途,他们可以持续多年没有穿出来,约80 $,我们可以买一个完整的设置更换有遇难。就是这样,几乎不需要维修,只用1运动部件,电动机本身是相当简单的。在我们的船,简单往往是设备选择的决定性因素。

这种电机恰好与激磁场和电枢(或SEPEX)接线。这只是意味着我们有超过电机功率输出更多的控制。我们可以调下来能有更多的低端扭矩,或最多获得高端的速度。这将使我们能够定制我们需要为我们的具体船上的动力输出。还有一些其它类型的电机在那里包括系列和永磁只能有一个组线圈。每种类型都有自己的优点和缺点。但是,我们不会得到任何的这里。如果您想了解更多有关直流电动机,请点击这里。



我们没有买新的。 。 。

因为我们从三个不同的公司已收到报价:
点击这里查看我们从OceanVolt报价为他们的AX8电机,
看到他们为我们的船计算这里。

点击这里查看我们的安纳波利斯从混合式海洋报价为托俄萨7000HT电机。
阅读他们的功耗和电池消耗HERE预测。

点击这里查看从电动游艇的一些数据和预测他们相当力矩电机20。


我们整个成立。 。 。

花费我们只是$ 1,400。
正如你可以在上面看到的报价,电机和辅助线都在$ 10,000的价格区间。不包括一电池组。我们的电机和接线花费了我们不到$ 500。我们的许多部件进行了翻新,使用或从船上打捞被拆除,其中包括一些布线。该电池组和额外的工具,如压线钳和切割机是另一个$ 500。因此,对于约1000 $,我们安装了我们的电比克系统。我们的计费系统最终只有400 $得益于成本我们几个惊人的公司谁加入了我们的乌玛天使家庭及提供的主要组成部分。了解更多有关“充电”一节我们的收费制度。

打破下来:
$ 500个_电机,控制器和补充布线。
$ 500个_代替电池。
$ 400 _对于太阳能充电器,面板和比米尼修改。
所需电力。 。 。

推动我们的船和你的。
“'船体速度”和“冗余电源”是不是我们在我们的系统担心。“
我们的电机有一个8HP评级。对于那些习惯于气体或柴油发动机,这似乎不是很多力量。但是,用于气体发动机和电动马达的评级系统是如此不同,比较数字几乎是毫无意义的。它归结为这样两种类型的电机用自己的能量和扭矩曲线,这是完全不同的。据研究,我们都做了,一个1马力的气体(或柴油)发动机可以在平静的条件下推500磅位移船体速度。现在,不同意的来源一点点在这里,但作为一个经验法则一1HP电动机可以推动比汽油相当于约3至3.5倍以上排量。因此,一个1HP电动机,拉丝750W,可以推动约1500磅的位移。

我们的船排水量13500英镑。因此,13500/1500 = 9HP电动机。
现在1HP(电动)得出约750瓦。所以,9HP点ˉx750W = 6.75kW电动机。
电源|速度|范围

瓦(×100)范围(KTS)
将鼠标悬停在任何时候看到确切的数据。例如,据估计,在2.7 KTS我们的电机上600瓦特(蓝色),给我们一个范围65海里(灰色)。此图是基于一个14kW的锂电池银行和高端电机/控制器组合。
在48V,我们的电机应该给我们6.3KW,这比我们需要我们的船推到船体的速度在平静的条件下略显不足。但是,这是我们从来没有打算这样做。这需要大量的电力来推动位移船船体的速度。所以,你走慢,更大范围的会。然而,它需要很长的时间以覆盖该距离。所以,有一个甜蜜点对周围4 KTS(见右图),您好好进展,而保守与功耗。当然,这些仅仅是建议。现实世界的情况很少是完美的,加入30%的冗余往往被很多汽车公司推荐。

我们只用电动机近距离机动航行的地方是不是一种选择,就像一个码头,或紧锚地,所以“船体速度”和“冗余电源”是不是我们担心我们的设计系统时。我们经常航行,并打爆,选择的地方周围几条船锚泊。
这里有一些伟大的公司。 。 。

这INSTAL,出售,或可以帮助回答你的问题。
五雷轰顶-EV和EV-西由谁愿意听取您的意见并帮助回答你的任何问题,伟大的人民组成。他们都提供了适合任何船的需求DIY套件。他们还可以帮助源充足的电池组,太阳能帮忙,甚至找当地的专家来协助安装以及。

如果你正在寻找一个更加“即插即用”的成立,看看下面的公司。他们代表了行业中的佼佼者,并会很乐意定制一组为您的特定需求,并提供了一个详细的报价。
ELCO汽车
ELCO MOTORS
elcomotoryachts.com

info@elcomotoryachts.com

1(877)411-3526
Oceanvolt SEA
OCEANVOLT SEA
oceanvolt.com

sales@oceanvolt.com

+358 10 325 5281
托俄萨
托俄萨
clean-e-marine.com

sreuther@annapolishybridmarine.com

+1(410)353-4348


电动游艇
电动游艇
electricyachtsocal.com

mike@electricyachtssocal.com

1(855)339-2248
Electroprop
ELECTROPROP
electroprop.com

electroprop@icloud.com

+1(805)455-8444
想要了解更多的...?
下面是关于“多少电,你真的需要另一个伟大的文章?



还有疑问?

首先,请继续阅读,我们可以在下面回答这些问题。如果没有,头向电比克论坛,并要求他们在那里。
我们很高兴你做了这一步,希望你学到了一些东西。我们相信好的创意应该是对所有人开放。但是,不管你做什么?

不要点击下面的按钮捐赠,因为这可能会使你感到温暖和模糊内。


THE MOTOR



You don’t need a diesel . . .  for ocean passages.

"We have no schedules requiring that we make it back to the dock on time."

Many people have written in and commented that an electric motor is only good for day sailors who weren’t going very far each day, and that you need a reliable diesel engine for long distance cruising. But we feel like the opposite is true. Since we don’t have a dock to tie up to and charge our batteries each night, we rely on sailing to recharge our system. The longer we sail and the more sun we get, the more power we make. Because we don’t have a 9-5 to return to at the end of a fun weekend out on the boat, we have no schedules requiring that we make it back to the dock on time, no matter what the wind is doing. So, we feel that an electric motor, depending on your sailing style, can be adapted to any boat. But, you have to be willing to work around the one major draw back, range.
Range is the one major downside to an electric motor. But, with a sailboat, and some adequate sailing skills, we have found we really don’t need a motor as much as we originally thought. For those who do have schedules, the possibility of a hybrid system may work well. It encompasses all the benefits of an electric system with the added back up of a diesel or gas genset rated to supply adequate power for extended motoring. Some companies even offer an electric motor, like this one, that can be installed in parallel to an existing diesel motor. So the majority of motoring is done with the traditional diesel, however for short periods of time, like moving around the marina, the electric drive can be used instead. This also incorporates the added benefit of capturing power from the spinning prop while sailing, often referred to as "regeneration" or "regen".



Our conversion to electric . . . started with our motor.


Motor Label (Click to enlarge)






We found the motor on ebay.com, knew it worked and that was about it. We chose this specific motor for three reasons:
  • It was rated at 4.8kW at 36v which was adequate for our needs.
  • It was overbuilt for an industrial application. This meant it had robust parts and easy to source replacement brushes.
  • The motor cost us $125! Since this entire “Electro-Beke” project is just one big experiment, we tried at every corner to keep our expenses minimal.
Our motor weighs 110 pounds, which is quite a bit more than its brushless DC siblings like those used in the existing electric boat market. Although it is probably a little less efficient, its components are much more robust and durable. It is heavy duty, low cost and provides adequate power, with the added bonus of being simple and easy to find parts for. The only parts we will likely every have to replace are the 8 carbon brushes that transfer electricity to the motor armature (the part that spins on the inside). Depending on use, they can last for many years without wearing out, and for about $80 we can buy a complete replacement set to have onboard. That's it, virtually maintenance free, with only 1 moving part, the motor itself is relatively simple. On our boat, simplicity is often the defining factor for equipment selection.
This motor happens to be wired with separately excited field and armature (or SEPEX). It just means that we have a lot more control over the motors power output. We can tune it down to have more low end torque, or up to gain high end speed. This will allow us to customize the power output we need for our specific boat. A few other types of motors out there include, Series, and Permanent Magnet that only have one set of coils. Each type has its own benefits and drawbacks. But we won’t get into any of that here. If you would like to know even more about DC motors, click HERE.
we didn't buy new . . .because we received quotes from three different companies:Our entire set up . . . cost us just $1,400. As you can see by the above quotes, The motors and supplementary wiring are all in the $10,000 price range. That doesn't include a battery bank. Our motor and wiring cost us just under $500. Many of our components were refurbished, used or salvaged from boats being demolished, including some of the wiring. The battery bank and additional tools, like wire crimpers and cutters were another $500. So, for about $1000, we installed our Electro-Beke system. Our charging system ended up costing us only $400 thanks to a few amazing companies who joined our Uma Angels Family and supplied the major components. Find out more about our charging system in the "Charging" section below.
That Breaks down to:
$500 _ for the motor, controller and supplementary wiring.
$500 _ for the batteries.
$400 _ for the solar charger, panels and bimini modifications.





Power required . . .to push our boat and yours.

"'Hull speed' and 'redundant power' weren't something we worried about in our system."

Our motor has an 8hp rating. For those accustomed to gas or diesel engines, this may not seem like much power. But, the rating systems used for gas engines and electric motors are so different that comparing the numbers is almost meaningless. It comes down to the way the two types of motors use their energy and torque curves, which is quite different. According to the research we have done,  a 1 hp gas (or diesel) engine can push 500 pounds of displacement to hull speed in calm conditions. Now, the sources disagree a little here, but as a rule of thumb a 1hp electric motor can push about 3 to 3.5 times more displacement than its petrol equivalent. So a 1hp electric motor, drawing 750W, can push about 1500 pounds of displacement.
Our boat displaces 13,500 pounds. So, 13,500 / 1500 = 9hp electric motor.Now 1hp (of electric) draws about 750 watts. So, 9hp x 750W = 6.75kW electric motor.

Power | Speed | Range
  • Watts (x 100)
  • Range (kts)


Hover over any point to see exact data. For example, it is estimated that at 2.7 kts our motor will draw 600 watts (blue), giving us a range of 65 nautical miles (grey). This graph is based on a 14kW Lithium battery bank and a high end motor/controller combo.



At 48V, our motor should give us 6.3kW, which is slightly less than what we would need to push our boat to hull speed in calm conditions. But that is something we never intend to do. It takes a lot of power to push a displacement boat to hull speed. So the slower you go, the greater your range will be. However, it takes a long time to cover that distance. So, there is a sweet spot right around 4 kts (see graph to the right) where you make good headway, while being conservative with your power consumption. Of course, these are merely suggestions. Real world conditions are rarely perfect and adding 30% redundancy is often recommended by many motor companies.
We only use our motor for close quarter maneuvering where sailing isn't an option, like a marina, or tight anchorage, so "hull speed" and "redundant power" weren't something we worried about when designing our system. We often sail on and off the hook and choose places to anchor with few boats around.





Here are some great companies . . .that instal, sell, or can help answer your questions. Thunderstruck-EV and EV-West are staffed by great people who would love to hear from you and help answer any questions you may have. They both offer DIY kits that will suit the needs of any boat. They can also help source adequate battery banks, help with solar and even find local experts to assist with installations as well.
If you're looking for a more "plug and play" set up, check out the companies below. They represent the best in the industry and will gladly customize a set up for your specific needs and provide a detailed quote.


ELCO MOTORS
info@elcomotoryachts.com
1 (877) 411-3526




OCEANVOLT SEA
sales@oceanvolt.com
+358 10 325 5281




THOOSA
sreuther@annapolishybridmarine.com
+1 (410) 353-4348





ELECTRIC YACHT
mike@electricyachtssocal.com
1 (855) 339-2248




ELECTROPROP
electroprop@icloud.com
+1 (805) 455-8444









Want to learn even MORE...?Here is another great article about "How much electric power do you really need?
Still have questions?First, keep reading, we might answer them below. If not, head over to The Electro-Beke Forum and ask them there.




We're glad you made it this far and hope you learned something. We believe good ideas should be accessible to all. But, whatever you do... DON'T click the donate button below, because it might cause you to feel warm and fuzzy inside.










2016-6-29 15:43
alann 楼主 来自: 湖南长沙
INSTALLATION



Getting down to the Nuts and BoltsFor the complete parts list and wiring diagram, scroll down.

"...all we had to do was figure out how to get the motor to spin the prop."

There is a lot to talk about here. Hopefully you can follow along and not fall asleep. Like…I …….am…….right….nowwwww(yawn)www... SLAP!!! Ok! I’m awake. Where was I. Right, wiring.
With no degrees or formal training in electrical engineering (and no, they didn't teach us this stuff in architecture school), we had a lot of learning to do. Here we were, with a big heavy electric motor we knew nothing about, a boat it could theoretically push and the dream it would all work in the end. Now all we had to do was figure out how to get the motor to spin the prop. Sounded simple enough…right?
This step, of course took the longest. Since all our components were used, refurbished or salvaged, we had to test everything. We then started wiring the system in pieces in the salon and testing those. We then modified, adjusted, replaced and fabricated new systems and tested those. In all, it took us 9 months from motor purchase, to moving boat. Granted, not all of that time was devoted to installing the motor. We did have a few other projects on the side.
There are four main sections to our electric motor installation:
  • The motor
  • The motor controller
  • The batteries
  • The wires that connect it all together

The MotorThe motor we talked about previously. In all honesty, the main concern when sourcing a motor, is that it has enough power (watts) to push your boat to the speed you would like. The second concern is that it will work with the voltage of the components you choose. 12/24/36/48/72/96V are all common. The general rule, is that the higher the voltage, the fewer amps need to be pushed through the system to attain the same wattage. With this in mind, we have found that 72/96V systems tend to be more expensive than similar 48V set ups and, pushing a boat requires much less power that pushing a car. So, we’re not worried about running hundreds of amps through the system. Although rated at 36V, we run our motor at 48V so we can utilize available golf cart components for the rest of our systems, which are also inexpensive and abundantly available. For our boat, we designed the system to handle 150 amps. This would give us a theoretical output of just over 7kW (48V x 150A = 7.2 kW). If you were paying attention earlier, you might notice that our motor is rated for only 4.8kW at 36V. That is a continuous rating however. It can handle more, but cannot sustain it for long periods of time without some external cooling system. But, because there are times when we need all the power we can get, like stopping or backing down on the anchor, we decided to run our system with a higher amperage rating to accommodate that need.

Check out these photos of our final installation. (As usual, click to enlarge)

















The Motor ControllerThis little box is the heart of an electrical conversion. Similar to the head of an ICE (internal combustion engine), it controls the speed at which the electric motor spins. It does this by breaking up the power stream coming in from the batteries into tiny little pulses. This is called Pulse Width Modulation or PWM. There are many different types of controllers out there. In general, if you found a motor with standard voltage range, there is a controller on the market that will work for it. Some are more complex than others. Some offer built in regen capabilities, while other require computer programing and digital displays.
Our controller is a Curtis 1209B. It is designed to run a series motor, but since we got it for such a good deal, we made it work with ours by only using it to power the armature. See the wiring diagram below for more details. This controller is not fancy. It is weather proof, simple and robust. If you haven't figured it out by now, we love simple and robust.

The BatteriesWe will explain more below in the "BATTERIES" section. But for now, as long as you can create a battery bank that can be wired to produce the required voltage for the rest of your system, then you'll be fine. Also keep in mind how much space and weight the bank will require. Ours fit perfectly where our old fuel tank used to be and helped offset all the weight we lost by removing the tank and the old diesel motor. For typical lead acid banks,  at 36V you will need 3 -12v or 6-6V batteries. A 48V bank will require 4 or 8 respectively and so on. Although you can purchase massive deep cycle batteries with equally large aH ratings, we don't see the value of them since it is very difficult to maneuver them into tight spaces on a boat. Ideally, if you can afford them, a lithium bank would be the best for an electric motor conversion. We'll talk more about them in the "WHAT"S NEXT" section below.

The WiresAll our wires our tinned copper or "Marine Grade", although, we despise that term since it often just means "more expensive." The majority of which, we scrapped off of boats that were being demolished a the boatyard. What we couldn't find for free, we purchased from a local discount marine store that sold surplus marine components. This allowed us to spend very little for all the wiring.
For the most part it is all oversized, but when it comes to wire, the bigger the better. There are many useful online calculators that can help give an idea of what size wire will be appropriate for a given application. If your wiring is undersized, the system will lose some efficiency. For the most part this is of no concern. However, in extreme circumstances it will heat the wire to the point of melting things. For example, we undersized the cables connecting the motor controller to the armature, after a 15min full power test at the dock, we melted off the heat shrink tubing on the terminal lugs. It was quickly replaced by something much more beefy and hasn't been a problem since.

O yeah, One More Thing . . .the motor mount. Oops, almost forgot. Somehow we had to keep the motor inline with the transmission and securely mounted to the boat.  We built and re-built 6 different mounting brackets prior to the one we have now. Each being fabricated after hours of sketches and models were developed. We didn't have to modify the motor any or the transmission itself. However, we did modify the original transmission adapter plate that was used to attach it to the back of our Westerbeke.  We then securely attached the transmission to the hull of our boat. This allowed the motor to float in front of it, leaving the transmission to absorb any thrust from the prop.
We fabricated the brackets out of steal since it is easy to work with and weld. Once we settled on a final design, we epoxied and painted the brackets and motor with engine enamel. We're quite pleased with the final outcome. All the exposed metal is protected from corrosion and it is very securely mounted to the old engine pan.
In tandem to our bracket iterations, were several attempts to connect the motor to the transmission. Our early versions were poorly aligned causing horrible vibrations that in turn produced noise. Noise was something we were trying to avoid by going electric. The final design paired two identical sprockets, connected inline by a #50 double roller chain. This seems to work quite well. It allows for small misalignments and produces the least amount of noise. There are of course many other options out there, and someday we may experiment with them. But, for now, this set up works for us.




安装
获取到螺母和螺栓


有关完整的零件清单和接线图,向下滚动。
“......我们所要做的就是弄清楚如何使电机旋转的道具。”
有很多谈论在这里。希望你能跟着和无法入睡。就像......我...... .AM ...... .right ... .nowwwww(打哈欠)WWW ... SLAP!好!我很清醒。在哪里一对,接线。


由于没有学位或电子工程专业的正规培训(不,他们没有告诉我们,在建筑学校这个东西),我们有很多做学习的。下面我们分别与我们一无所知笨重的大电机,船理论上可以推动与梦想,将在结束所有工作。现在我们要做的就是弄清楚如何使电机旋转的道具。听起来很简单,对吧?


这一步当然了最长的。由于我们的所有组件都使用,翻新或回收的,我们必须检验一切。然后,我们开始布线件系统在沙龙和测试这些。然后,我们修改,调整,更换和制造新的系统和测试过这些。总之,我们花了从电机采购9个月来移动船。当然,并非所有的时间专门安装电机。我们确实有一个侧面的几个其他项目。


还有我们的电动马达安装四个主要部分:
马达
电动机控制器
电池
连接到一起的电线



电机


马达我们谈到以前。在所有诚实,采购电机的主要问题时,是它有足够的功率(瓦)到你的船推到你想要的速度。第二个问题是,它会与您选择的组件的电压下工作。 12月24日/ 36 /72分之48/ 96V都是常见的。一般的规则是,电压越高,越少安培需要通过系统推以达到相同的功率。考虑到这一点,我们发现,72 / 96V系统往往比同类48V集跌宕,推船更昂贵的需要更少的动力推动一辆汽车。所以,我们并不担心在系统运行数百安培。虽然额定功率为36V,我们运行在48V发动机,所以我们可以利用可用的高尔夫球车组件我们的系统,这也是价格低廉,来源广泛的其余部分。对于我们的船,我们设计的系统,以把手部150安培。这将使我们刚刚超过7千瓦(48V 150A点ˉx= 7.2千瓦)的理论输出。如果你先前关注的是,您可能会注意到,我们的电机额定36V时仅4.8KW。这不过是一个连续的评级。它可以处理更多,但不能维持它对于没有某种外部冷却系统长时间。但是,因为有的时候,我们需要所有我们能得到的权力,比如停止或让步的锚,我们决定来运行我们的系统具有更高的电流额定值,以适应这一需求。





看看这些照片我们最后的安装。
(像往常一样,点击放大)
20160517_180349.jpg
20160517_180429.jpg
20160517_180501.jpg
20160517_180536.jpg
20160517_180631.jpg



马达控制器


这个小盒子是一个电转换的心脏。类似于一个ICE(内燃机)的头部时,它控制在该电动机旋转的速度。它打破了由电池来在成微小的脉冲功率流做到这一点。这被称为脉冲宽度调制或PWM。有许多不同类型的控制器在那里的。在一般情况下,如果发现与标准电压范围内的电机,有在市场上的控制器,将用于它的工作。有些人比其他人更复杂。有些提供内置的再生能力,而其他需要计算机编程和数字显示器。


我们的控制器是柯蒂斯1209B。它的目的是运行一系列的电机,但因为我们得到了这样一个很好的协议,我们做到了只用它来驱动电枢与我们合作。详情请参见下面的线路图。该控制器并不花哨。它是防风雨的,简单的和健壮。如果你现在还没有想通了,我们的爱情简单而强大的。





电池


我们将在“电池”一节中进一步解释如下。但现在,只要你可以创建一个可以连接到生产为您的系统的其他部分所需要的电压的电池组,那么你会没事的。同时请记住,银行将有多少空间和重量的要求。我们配合得非常完美,正是我们以前油箱曾经是并且帮助抵消所有我们失去了通过去除箱和旧柴油发动机的重量。对于典型的铅酸银行,在36V则需要3 -12V或6-6V电池。 48V的银行将需要4或8个分别等。虽然你可以用同样大的收视率啊大量购买深循环电池,我们没有看到他们的价值,因为它是非常困难的他们机动到在船上狭小的空间。理想情况下,如果你能负担得起,锂银行将是最好的一个电动马达转换。我们将更多地谈论他们“做什么”S NEXT“的部分。





电线


我们所有的电线我们镀锡铜或“海洋级”,虽然,我们鄙视这个词,因为它往往只是意味着“更贵。”其中大部分,我们报废掉,正在拆除一个船厂的船。我们无法找到免费的东西,我们从出售多余的海洋部分当地海洋打折商店购买。这使我们能够花很少的所有接线。


在大多数情况下它是所有过大,但是当涉及到线,越大越好。有许多有用的在线计算器,可以帮助给出什么规格线材都适用于给定应用的想法。如果你的布线不够大,系统会失去一些效率。在大多数情况下,这是不关心的。然而,在极端的情况下,将加热丝的熔化物的点。例如,我们矮小连接电机控制器电枢电缆,在码头一个15分钟全功率试验后,我们融化了的接线片热缩管。它很快就被一些更健壮的替代,一直没有因为问题。





Ø是啊,还有一件事。 。 。


电机坐骑。
哎呀,差点忘了。不知怎的,我们必须保持内嵌电机与变速器和牢固地安装在船上。我们建立和再建6个不同的安装支架一个我们现在有之前。被开发草图和模型小时后每一个被制造。我们没有修改任何发动机或变速器本身。但是,我们确实修改用于将其附加到我们Westerbeke背面的原始传输转接板。然后我们牢固地连接到我们的船的船体的传输。这使得电机浮在它的前面,而使传输到吸收来自支座任何推力。


我们制造的括号出偷,因为它很容易与和焊接工作。一旦我们选定了最终的设计中,我们用环氧树脂和彩绘支架和电机引擎珐琅。我们很满意最后的结果。所有暴露的金属被保护不受腐蚀,它是非常牢固地安装在旧发动机锅。


串联到我们的托架迭代,几个尝试电动机连接到传输。我们早期的版本是一致不佳导致,反过来产生的噪声振动可怕。噪音是我们试图避免去电的东西。最终设计成对两个相同的链轮,由50#双滚子链连接的内联。这似乎工作得很好。它允许小偏差,并产生噪声的量最少。当然还有很多其他选择了那里,总有一天我们会与他们进行实验。但是,就目前而言,这种建立为我们工作。








2016-6-29 16:03
alann 楼主 来自: 湖南长沙
WIRING



WIRING DIAGRAMIncluding complete parts list.Here it is. The schematic you've all been requesting. You may notice that it is drawn for a direct drive system, where the motor is used to electronically shift from forward to reverse. We have since installed our motor in front of our old transmission and no longer need the Fwd/Rev circuit. However, since the majority of set ups out there use the motor to achieve Fwd/Rev, we wanted to show our diagram depicting a similar set up. If you end up with a Series or PM motor, you should be able to modify this diagram by excluding the 12V bank to motor connections. However, many of the components, like the contactors, require a 12V supply to operate their solenoids. So you will still need a 12V accessory bank. This is often the house bank of a boat, since many smaller boats run 12V house banks anyway.


1463420414479.jpg

(Click image above to enlarge)






Parts ListBelow are the components we used, why we chose them, where to buy them and pictures of them installed in our boat. If you didn't figure it out already, their letters correspond to the diagram above.  




(A) - 10A FUSEBuy one HERE.


(Click to enlarge)






This is a simple automotive fuse held in an inline fuse holder. It protects the ignition circuit wiring from drawing too much amperage in the event of a short.





(B) - Key SwitchBuy one HERE. The key switch is mainly for security. It can be replaced by a simple on/off switch, but taking the key out will slow down someone trying to leave with your boat, without your permission.





(C) - FWD/REV SwitchBuy one HERE. This switch is only needed if you are planning a direct drive system. We no longer have need for it, but also have yet to rewire our system after we installed the transmission. It is a basic rocker switch with an on/off/on rocker and 6 pins on the back. This allows both positive and negative wires to be switched. We also wired ours so that it will shut off the contactors if switched accidentally while the throttle was engaged. That way it wouldn't cause any damage to the motor.





(D) - ThrottleBuy one HERE.


(Click to enlarge)






The throttle tells the motor controller how much power to send the motor. We chose this one because it allowed us to keep our existing throttle lever and cable mounted on the steering pedestal. It also has a micro switch that we use to close the secondary contactor (N) on the 48V side and the Fwd/Rev contactor (E) on the 12V side when the throttle is pushed forward. This ensures no voltage is going through the system until the throttle is actually engaged.





(E) - FWD/REV ContactorBuy one HERE.


(Click to enlarge)






This, again, is not needed if you, like us, install the motor with a transmission that handles Fwd/Rev. However, if you are planning a direct drive set up, and the controller you chose doesn't have a Fwd/Rev circuit, then this is a necessary evil. The one we used, we scrapped off an dead windlass. It works great for the 12V circuit and are easy to find.





(F) - Main Battery Switch Buy one HERE.


(Click to enlarge)






Our boat came with this switch installed already. We simply rewired it slightly to accommodate our systems. For now we only use the "Battery 1" and "off" settings. However, if we eventually install a DC-DC converter to bring our 48V bank down to 12V we could wire it to the "battery 2" position as a back up battery bank.   





(G) - Positive Buss BarBuy one HERE.


(Click to enlarge)






Pretty basic here. A buss bar is used to connect multiple leads to the same source. This one is beefy to handle high amperage on the positive side of the 12V circuit.





(H) - Negative Buss BarBuy one HERE. Same as the Positive buss bar above. However this one is tied into the 48V circuit.





(J & M) - ShuntBuy one HERE.


(Click to enlarge)






These are pretty standard. They are required to hook up an amp meter and measure how much amperage is running through your system. Often an amp meter will come with its own shunt. They sample the current so that not all 100+ amps are running through a meter. That would be very dangerous. Just make sure the shunt and meter are rated for the same mV, usually 50mV or 100mV.



(K & U) - Main FuseBuy one HERE.


(Click to enlarge)






These fuses protect the wiring in the system. The closer to the battery bank the better. The fuse on the 48V side is rated for 200A and the 12V fuse is rated for 80A. These are rated for amperage only and can usually take a variety of voltages. Both fuses and holders are identical. They just have different ratings.





(L) - Primary Contactor Buy one HERE.  


(Click to enlarge)






This contactor is wired to the main key switch. It is a bit redundant but shuts off any power from the controller, motor and gauges. It acts more like a battery shut off.





(N) - Secondary ContactorBuy one HERE.  


(Click to enlarge)






This contactor supplies the motor controller with the power it needs to run the motor. It is also the one that is bypassed by (T) the pre-charge resistor. Contactors are just big remote activated switches. Like breakers, they activate very fast to eliminate high amperage arching.





(P) - Motor Controller Buy one HERE.


(Click to enlarge)






The motor controller we chose works for our application, but there are many out there to choose from. Do your own research here before deciding on what motor you will use. We happened to get a sweet deal on ours so we made it work with our motor. Our system would be less complicated if we used a controller designed for a SEPEX motor. The Curtis 1209B that we have is designed for a Series motor, but we make it work.





(Q) - DC Motor (SEPEX)Sorry, you'll have to find this one on your own.


(Click to enlarge)






Since another motor like ours has yet to show up again for sale online, we can't really recommend the same one.  However, the basic idea is finding a motor with the appropriate wattage to push your boat. Refer to our "Power Requirements" section to get an idea of what that might be. Then just make sure it will produce the desired power at a voltage that you would like to work with. We recommend 48V for most applications for reasons described previously.





(R) -  Amp MeterBuy one HERE. These attach to the shunt (J & M) and show you how many amps are running through the system. Depending on where it is placed it can either read the amps being drawn from the battery bank or the amps going to the motor. We decided to read the amps being drawn from our batteries.





(S) - Volt MeterBuy one HERE. This meter does not require a shunt. As long as the negative lead makes its way back to the negative buss bar, the positive lead can be attached at any point along the circuit. We chose again to read the battery bank voltage with ours. However, it can also be place on the motor to read the voltage there instead.





(T) - Pre-charge Resistor They look like THIS.


(Click to enlarge)






There is no specific item to show you here. Each controller and each set up is different. But, I can tell you that the pre-charge resistor is very important. It by-passes the main contactors and supplies the motor controller with the power it needs to pre-charge, so its ready when the main contactor is switched on and all that amperage comes rushing in.







Want to learn even MORE...?Make sure you check out SV Bianka's page for another detailed blog about his electric motor installation.
For another great article about all the other stuff that goes into a motor installation, you might want to read "Balance of System". The article is for an electric motorcycle set up, but the basics are similar enough.  
Still have questions?First, keep reading, we might answer them below. If not, head over to The Electro-Beke Forum and ask them there.




We believe that good ideas and useful information should be available to everyone and have intentionally refrained from selling our work or ideas so it can be shared freely. However, if you found this information useful, please donate to The Electro-Beke Fund below and help us continue.











看完给点钱,你用上了人家技术更应该给点钱哈(我帮忙吆呼的呵呵)http://www.sailinguma.com





接线
接线图

其中包括完整的零部件清单。
这里是。你一直在请求示意图。您可能会注意到它绘制的直接驱动系统,其中电动机用于从电子向前移动逆转。我们自安装了我们的电机我们的老传输前,不再需要正转/反转电路。但是,由于大多数设置窗口在那里用电机实现正转/反转,我们要展示我们的图描绘了类似的设立。如果你结束了一个系列或PM电机,你应该能够通过排除12V银行电机连接修改此图。然而,许多组件,如接触器,需要12V电源来操作他们的螺线管。所以,你仍然需要一个12V的配件库。这通常是一个船的内部银行,因为许多小船跑12V家银行反正。
(点击上面图片放大)
(点击上面图片放大)

零件清单

下面是安装在我们的船,我们使用,我们为什么选择他们,哪里可以买到他们的组件和他们的照片。如果你没有搞清楚不已,他们的字母对应上面的图。
(A) - 10A保险丝

购买一个在这里。
(点击放大)
(点击放大)

这是一个内嵌保险丝座举行了简单的汽车保险丝。它保护点火电路配线在很短的情况下,消耗太多电流。
(B) - 钥匙开关

购买一个在这里。
钥匙开关主要是为了安全。它可以通过一个简单的替换ON / OFF开关,但服用抠出将放缓有人试图用你的船离开,未经您的许可。
(C) - FWD / REV开关

购买一个在这里。
如果您打算直接驱动系统时,才需要此开关。我们不再需要它,而且还没有我们安装了传输之后重新布线我们的系统。它是一个基本的摇臂开关与背面的开/关/开摇杆和6针。这使得要被切换的积极和消极的电线。我们也连线我们的,这样,如果不小心打开,而油门从事它将关闭接触。这样,它不会导致向马达的任何损害。
(D) - 油门

购买一个在这里。
(点击放大)
(点击放大)

油门告诉电机控制器多大的实力派电机。我们选择了这一个,因为它使我们能够保持我们现有的油门杆和安装在方向盘底座电缆。它也有,我们使用的12V侧的侧48V和正转/反转接触器(E)关闭二次接触器(N)当油门向前推一个微动开关。这将确保没有电压会通过该系统,直到油门实际从事。
(E) - FWD / REV接触

购买一个在这里。
(点击放大)
(点击放大)

这又是不是如果你和我们一样,拥有处理正向/反向传输安装马达所需。但是,如果您打算直接驱动设置,并且您选择不具有正向/反向电路控制器,那么这是一个必要之恶。我们使用的一种,我们报废掉的死卷扬机。它的伟大工程的12V电路很容易找到。
(F) - 主电池开关

购买一个在这里。
(点击放大)
(点击放大)

我们的船来了与此开关已安装。我们只是重新布线稍微适应我们的系统。现在,我们只使用“电池1”和“关”的设置。但是,如果我们最终安装一个DC-DC转换器,使我们的银行48V降至12V,我们可以其连接到“电池2”的位置作为备用电池组。
(G) - 巴斯正面酒吧

购买一个在这里。
(点击放大)
(点击放大)

非常基本的在这里。汇流条被用于多个引脚连接到同一来源。这一个是结实的处理上12V电路的积极的一面高安培。
(H) - 负巴斯酒吧

购买一个在这里。
同上阳性汇流条。然而,这一个是绑到48V电路。
(J&M) - 分流

购买一个在这里。
(点击放大)
(点击放大)

这些都是相当标准。他们必须将计算机与安培表和测量有多少电流是通过你的系统运行。通常,一个安培表将带着自己的分流。因此,并不是所有的100+安培通过一个仪表运行他们采样电流。这将是非常危险的。只要确保分流和仪表的额定相同毫伏,通常为50mV或100mV的。
(K&U) - 主保险丝

购买一个在这里。
(点击放大)
(点击放大)

这些熔断器保护系统中的布线。到电池组越接近越好。在48V侧熔断器的额定电流为200A和12V的熔断器的额定电流为80A。这些的额定仅安培数,通常可采取各种电压。这两个保险丝和持有人是相同的。他们只是有不同的等级。
(L) - 主接触器

购买一个在这里。
(点击放大)
(点击放大)

该接触器被连接到主钥匙开关。这是一个有点多余,但切断从控制器,电机和仪表的任何权力。它的作用更像是一个电池关闭。
(N) - 二次接触

购买一个在这里。
(点击放大)
(点击放大)

这与接触它需要运行电机电源电机控制器。它也是由(T)的预充电电阻器旁路的之一。接触器只是大远程激活的开关。断路器一样,他们启动速度非常快,以消除高电流拱。
(P) - 电机控制器

购买一个在这里。
(点击放大)
(点击放大)

马达控制器,我们选择的作品为我们的应用程序,但也有许多在那里可供选择。决定你会用什么电机前在这里做自己的研究。我们碰巧得到一个甜蜜的交易上我们,所以我们使它与我们的电机工作。如果我们使用设计用于SEPEX马达控制器我们的系统将是较不复杂。柯蒂斯1209B,我们已经设计了系列电机,但我们使它发挥作用。
(Q) - 直流电动机(SEPEX)

对不起,你必须找到这一个你自己的。
(点击放大)
(点击放大)

因为像我们这样的另一台电机尚未发售再次显示在线,我们实在不建议相同。但是,其基本思想是找到与适当的功率来推动你的船的马达。请参考我们的“电源要求”部分,以得到什么,可能是一个想法。然后,只需确保它会产生所需要的功率,你想一起工作的电压。我们建议48V为前面所述的原因,大多数应用程序。
(R) - 安培计

购买一个在这里。
这些连接到分流(J&M),并显示有多少安培通过系统运行。取决于它被置于它可以读取来自电池组或将要在电机的安培正在绘制的安培。我们决定从阅读我们的电池被绘制安培。
(S) - 电压表

购买一个在这里。
该电表不需要分流。只要负引线使得其返回到负汇流条的方式,正极引线可以在沿着电路的任何点处连接。我们再次选择读与我们的电池组电压。然而,它也可以是代替在电机上读取的电压有代替。
(T), - 预充电电阻器

他们是这样的。
(点击放大)
(点击放大)

没有你在这里展示特定项目。每个控制器,每个设置都是不同的。但是,我可以告诉你,预充电电阻器是非常重要的。它通过绕过主接触器和它需要预充电电源马达控制器,所以其准备当主接触器被打开,所有的电流自带在冲。
想要了解更多的...?
请确保你对他的电动马达安装另一个详细博客看看SV Bianka的页面。

有关所有其他的东西另一个伟大的一篇文章,进入一个电机安装,您可能需要阅读“系统的平衡”。这篇文章是为电动摩托车成立,但基础知识有足够的相似。



还有疑问?

首先,请继续阅读,我们可以在下面回答这些问题。如果没有,头向电比克论坛,并要求他们在那里。
我们相信,好的想法和有用的信息,应该是提供给大家,并有意出售我们的工作或想法,因此它可以被自由共享忍住了。

但是,如果您发现此信息有用,请捐赠给下面的电比克基金,并帮助我们继续。
2016-6-29 16:10

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https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCXbWsGV_cjG3gOsSnNJPVlg

弄了个烂船,船地板,船底,黑水箱,饮水箱,水泵,动力改电机,发动机充电,混动哦。一样样都自己搞,也专业。看他砂轮机切割功夫还不赖,现在到了23节还在修,基本上就是全翻新。

作为修船片子向大家推荐。拍摄剪辑很不错。

無法看到發郵件給船長,他和大家熟悉点,他有办法給轉,



补充内容 (2016-6-29 15:23):
我们的船
“作为幸福并不意味着一切都是完美的。它意味着你已经决定要透过事物的缺陷。“
- 未知
故事

他们说的千里之行,始于足下。对我们来说,而不是一个脚印,把我们的旅程开始了一个飞跃。我们什么都卖,我们并不需要,汽车,电脑,摩托车,家具 - 一切。我们不能卖,我们捐,我们用这笔钱购买了帆船

小舟

我们的船“乌玛”是1972年36皮尔逊“。她既不花哨,价格昂贵,也不便宜,站不住脚的,对我们来说,她是完美的。我们希望与它携带的动机和理性,导致我们买她的第一个地方的名称。她的名字是葡萄牙人1号(UMA)的启发,意思是第一或初级。她是我们的第一步

梦想

对我们来说,“乌玛”不仅仅是一个数量。生活中有许多路可以选择。所有需要的第一步,第一想法,首选站在,引导您在您的旅途。我们希望我们的故事将站在为灵感那些想追求自己的梦想,把他们的第一步,自己去发现,乌玛。



我们的旅程
“这是好事,有一个结束走向旅程;但它是重要的,到底之旅“。

- 海明威
之旅

作为生活雪球一方面进入下,它通常很难当一个结束,下开始描绘。我想你可以说我们的旅程在大学开始的地方大家见面了。欲了解更多的背景有关我们看看我们的进化页面。

虽然我们的目标,愿望和对我们的未来计划,我们知道这些都只是指导方针。对我们来说,它更是享受这个旅程比上行了吧目标。我们完全明白,明天可能都在改变,我们希望随着我们的成长,你会加入我们的行列,发展在过去几年。

我们不作任何承诺,接受与您分享我们的冒险,并有一次一个地狱这样做。加入我们的旅程中,我们会发现我们要去的地方,当我们到达那里。

补充内容 (2016-6-29 15:37):
电动机。 。 。

并不适合每一个人。
“我们还没有使用我们的超过30分钟马达以时间”。
让我们先来看看回来的时候“生产”船成为60年代末70年代初流行的,其目的是使一个便宜的船一般家庭可以负担得起,用有限的航海经验和知识处理。这样一来,他们的要求之一是移动的船在困难情况的能力。这就是“辅机”被创造出来。但是,对于许多人来说,它已成为操纵他们的船的主要手段。是的,有在世界上的地方你不能航行,像巴拿马运河。但是,经常有替代品,你可以航行。

截至今天,2016年5月,我们已经航行超过1000英里的美国东海岸。我们还没有使用我们为30分钟以上马达在一个时间。当我们放下主帆和退缩在我们的锚来设置它的大部分使用自带。我们大部分的帆船已经离岸。但是,我们也航行在ICW最近航行25英里了开普菲尔河北卡罗来纳州威尔明顿。我们已经在许多桥梁航行,对一些确定的时间表,其他按需开启。在任何情况下,我们航行之下。我们已经发现,在具有坚实的计划和耐心等待合适的天气和潮汐是关键。

毕竟,我们拥有自己的帆船。他们是天生就慢。我们不是在匆忙。我们爱的是自给自足的想法。但是,对于那些谁与时间表航行,很短的时间,缺乏耐心的坐在风孔,觉得有必要来驱动他们的船船体速度,享受维护柴油发动机或只是以自己的方式,设置那么电动马达可能不是正确的选择。
一个快速侧面说明:

除非另有说明,我们不属于或任何公司或本网页上的链接都是赞助。他们只是我们发现沿途有帮助的来源,我们只希望与其他人谁可能有兴趣分享。
想要了解更多的...?
当然,我们很乐意为你留下来和阅读此页一路底部,但,我们在前进的道路上许多干扰(即链接)卷起。如果你跑题了不心疼,我们知道你会回来的。

如果你只想先跳英尺万物“电动帆船”电动海洋是一个良好的开端。这是一个伟大的社会资源和功能,让您享受其他一些电动帆船的故事。
 
另一个潜在的巨大资源...
“我的电动船”的:查尔斯马特仕。

虽然这本书是目前我们的亚马逊愿望清单上,我们还没有读过它。但是,这是我们能找到的关于这个问题,并且对于只有15 $只有一个,它看起来很有希望。如果你读它,我们之前做,让我们知道您的想法!
还有疑问?

首先,请继续阅读,我们可以在下面回答这些问题。如果没有,头向电比克论坛,并要求他们在那里。
地址不对呀,打开没有你说的内容
2016-4-17 14:55
屏幕快照 2016-04-17 下午5.28.05.png

这不一样样都分好主题等你找重点,

最下面是买船开始讲,12节视频过来讲到到下水,


还有强烈推荐,点击字幕,再点齿轮,选自动翻译,拉推拉条到底,倒数第二是简体,

就可以进入半看半猜模式,进入幻想式观赏

如果听得懂一点,加上字幕就可以理解大概
2016-4-17 17:36
第二四节,改直轴链接,太棒了,建议大家都看看,
2016-4-17 17:49
有空也感受感受......
2016-4-27 15:54
我有船在翻新,可发我QQ么,1375924502
2016-6-28 21:36
2016-6-29 15:35
哥在哪里翻新施工,俺木有qq哦,这个是手机号微信吗  详情 回复
zslingan 发表于 2016-6-28 21:36
我有船在翻新,可发我QQ么,1375924502

哥在哪里翻新施工,俺木有qq哦,这个是手机号微信吗
2016-6-29 15:35
吃透了很好改装,
这家伙算雷锋了,啥都高数你



THE MOTOR
你不需要柴油。 。 。

海洋通道。
“我们没有时间表,要求我们使其恢复到上一次的码头。”
很多人都写成,并评论说,电动马达仅用于天水手谁的每一天都不会很远好,你需要一个可靠的柴油发动机长途巡航。但我们认为事实正好相反。因为我们没有一个码头每天晚上绑起来并收取我们的电池,我们依靠航行补给我们的系统。时间越长,我们航行,并多晒太阳,我们得到的更多动力。因为我们没有一个9-5在一个有趣的周末了船上年底回国做,我们没有时间表,要求我们让它回到码头上的时候,不管什么风正在做什么。因此,我们认为,电动马达,这取决于你的帆船造型,可适应任何船。但是,你必须愿意来解决的一个主要退缩,范围。

范围是一个主要的缺点是电动机。但是,有帆船,还有一些适当的航海技术,我们发现,我们真的不需要电机就像我们原来想象。对于那些谁拥有的时间表,混合动力系统的可能性可以很好地工作。它包括一个电力系统的所有优点与加回了柴油或汽油发电机组额定延长驾驶提供足够的动力。一些公司甚至提供一台电动机,像这样的,可以安装在平行于现有的柴油发动机。所以多数驾驶的是与传统的柴油然而对于短时间完成,像码头周围移动时,电驱动可以用来代替。这还采用从纺丝丙捕捉能力,同时帆船,通常被称为“再生”或“再生”的好处。



我们转换为电力。 。 。

开始我们的电机。
电机铭牌(点击放大)
电机铭牌(点击放大)

我们发现在电机上ebay.com,知道这工作,仅此而已。我们选择这个特定的马达的原因有三:

它被评为在4.8KW在36V这是足以满足我们的需求。
这是过度建设用于工业应用。这意味着它有强大的部件,并且容易更换来源刷。
电机花费我们$ 125元!由于这整个“电比克”项目只是一个大的实验中,我们试图在每一个角落,让我们的开销很小。
我们的电机重量为110磅,比其直流无刷兄弟姐妹就像那些在现有的电动船市场上使用相当多的。虽然它可能是一个小的效率较低,其成分是更坚固耐用。它是重负荷,低成本,并提供充足的电力,具有简便且容易找到份为额外的奖励。我们可能会每不得不更换仅部分是8碳刷用电传送到电机电枢(即在内侧旋转的部分)。根据用途,他们可以持续多年没有穿出来,约80 $,我们可以买一个完整的设置更换有遇难。就是这样,几乎不需要维修,只用1运动部件,电动机本身是相当简单的。在我们的船,简单往往是设备选择的决定性因素。

这种电机恰好与激磁场和电枢(或SEPEX)接线。这只是意味着我们有超过电机功率输出更多的控制。我们可以调下来能有更多的低端扭矩,或最多获得高端的速度。这将使我们能够定制我们需要为我们的具体船上的动力输出。还有一些其它类型的电机在那里包括系列和永磁只能有一个组线圈。每种类型都有自己的优点和缺点。但是,我们不会得到任何的这里。如果您想了解更多有关直流电动机,请点击这里。



我们没有买新的。 。 。

因为我们从三个不同的公司已收到报价:
点击这里查看我们从OceanVolt报价为他们的AX8电机,
看到他们为我们的船计算这里。

点击这里查看我们的安纳波利斯从混合式海洋报价为托俄萨7000HT电机。
阅读他们的功耗和电池消耗HERE预测。

点击这里查看从电动游艇的一些数据和预测他们相当力矩电机20。


我们整个成立。 。 。

花费我们只是$ 1,400。
正如你可以在上面看到的报价,电机和辅助线都在$ 10,000的价格区间。不包括一电池组。我们的电机和接线花费了我们不到$ 500。我们的许多部件进行了翻新,使用或从船上打捞被拆除,其中包括一些布线。该电池组和额外的工具,如压线钳和切割机是另一个$ 500。因此,对于约1000 $,我们安装了我们的电比克系统。我们的计费系统最终只有400 $得益于成本我们几个惊人的公司谁加入了我们的乌玛天使家庭及提供的主要组成部分。了解更多有关“充电”一节我们的收费制度。

打破下来:
$ 500个_电机,控制器和补充布线。
$ 500个_代替电池。
$ 400 _对于太阳能充电器,面板和比米尼修改。
所需电力。 。 。

推动我们的船和你的。
“'船体速度”和“冗余电源”是不是我们在我们的系统担心。“
我们的电机有一个8HP评级。对于那些习惯于气体或柴油发动机,这似乎不是很多力量。但是,用于气体发动机和电动马达的评级系统是如此不同,比较数字几乎是毫无意义的。它归结为这样两种类型的电机用自己的能量和扭矩曲线,这是完全不同的。据研究,我们都做了,一个1马力的气体(或柴油)发动机可以在平静的条件下推500磅位移船体速度。现在,不同意的来源一点点在这里,但作为一个经验法则一1HP电动机可以推动比汽油相当于约3至3.5倍以上排量。因此,一个1HP电动机,拉丝750W,可以推动约1500磅的位移。

我们的船排水量13500英镑。因此,13500/1500 = 9HP电动机。
现在1HP(电动)得出约750瓦。所以,9HP点ˉx750W = 6.75kW电动机。
电源|速度|范围

瓦(×100)范围(KTS)
将鼠标悬停在任何时候看到确切的数据。例如,据估计,在2.7 KTS我们的电机上600瓦特(蓝色),给我们一个范围65海里(灰色)。此图是基于一个14kW的锂电池银行和高端电机/控制器组合。
在48V,我们的电机应该给我们6.3KW,这比我们需要我们的船推到船体的速度在平静的条件下略显不足。但是,这是我们从来没有打算这样做。这需要大量的电力来推动位移船船体的速度。所以,你走慢,更大范围的会。然而,它需要很长的时间以覆盖该距离。所以,有一个甜蜜点对周围4 KTS(见右图),您好好进展,而保守与功耗。当然,这些仅仅是建议。现实世界的情况很少是完美的,加入30%的冗余往往被很多汽车公司推荐。

我们只用电动机近距离机动航行的地方是不是一种选择,就像一个码头,或紧锚地,所以“船体速度”和“冗余电源”是不是我们担心我们的设计系统时。我们经常航行,并打爆,选择的地方周围几条船锚泊。
这里有一些伟大的公司。 。 。

这INSTAL,出售,或可以帮助回答你的问题。
五雷轰顶-EV和EV-西由谁愿意听取您的意见并帮助回答你的任何问题,伟大的人民组成。他们都提供了适合任何船的需求DIY套件。他们还可以帮助源充足的电池组,太阳能帮忙,甚至找当地的专家来协助安装以及。

如果你正在寻找一个更加“即插即用”的成立,看看下面的公司。他们代表了行业中的佼佼者,并会很乐意定制一组为您的特定需求,并提供了一个详细的报价。
ELCO汽车
ELCO MOTORS
elcomotoryachts.com

info@elcomotoryachts.com

1(877)411-3526
Oceanvolt SEA
OCEANVOLT SEA
oceanvolt.com

sales@oceanvolt.com

+358 10 325 5281
托俄萨
托俄萨
clean-e-marine.com

sreuther@annapolishybridmarine.com

+1(410)353-4348


电动游艇
电动游艇
electricyachtsocal.com

mike@electricyachtssocal.com

1(855)339-2248
Electroprop
ELECTROPROP
electroprop.com

electroprop@icloud.com

+1(805)455-8444
想要了解更多的...?
下面是关于“多少电,你真的需要另一个伟大的文章?



还有疑问?

首先,请继续阅读,我们可以在下面回答这些问题。如果没有,头向电比克论坛,并要求他们在那里。
我们很高兴你做了这一步,希望你学到了一些东西。我们相信好的创意应该是对所有人开放。但是,不管你做什么?

不要点击下面的按钮捐赠,因为这可能会使你感到温暖和模糊内。


THE MOTOR



You don’t need a diesel . . .  for ocean passages.

"We have no schedules requiring that we make it back to the dock on time."

Many people have written in and commented that an electric motor is only good for day sailors who weren’t going very far each day, and that you need a reliable diesel engine for long distance cruising. But we feel like the opposite is true. Since we don’t have a dock to tie up to and charge our batteries each night, we rely on sailing to recharge our system. The longer we sail and the more sun we get, the more power we make. Because we don’t have a 9-5 to return to at the end of a fun weekend out on the boat, we have no schedules requiring that we make it back to the dock on time, no matter what the wind is doing. So, we feel that an electric motor, depending on your sailing style, can be adapted to any boat. But, you have to be willing to work around the one major draw back, range.
Range is the one major downside to an electric motor. But, with a sailboat, and some adequate sailing skills, we have found we really don’t need a motor as much as we originally thought. For those who do have schedules, the possibility of a hybrid system may work well. It encompasses all the benefits of an electric system with the added back up of a diesel or gas genset rated to supply adequate power for extended motoring. Some companies even offer an electric motor, like this one, that can be installed in parallel to an existing diesel motor. So the majority of motoring is done with the traditional diesel, however for short periods of time, like moving around the marina, the electric drive can be used instead. This also incorporates the added benefit of capturing power from the spinning prop while sailing, often referred to as "regeneration" or "regen".



Our conversion to electric . . . started with our motor.


Motor Label (Click to enlarge)






We found the motor on ebay.com, knew it worked and that was about it. We chose this specific motor for three reasons:
  • It was rated at 4.8kW at 36v which was adequate for our needs.
  • It was overbuilt for an industrial application. This meant it had robust parts and easy to source replacement brushes.
  • The motor cost us $125! Since this entire “Electro-Beke” project is just one big experiment, we tried at every corner to keep our expenses minimal.
Our motor weighs 110 pounds, which is quite a bit more than its brushless DC siblings like those used in the existing electric boat market. Although it is probably a little less efficient, its components are much more robust and durable. It is heavy duty, low cost and provides adequate power, with the added bonus of being simple and easy to find parts for. The only parts we will likely every have to replace are the 8 carbon brushes that transfer electricity to the motor armature (the part that spins on the inside). Depending on use, they can last for many years without wearing out, and for about $80 we can buy a complete replacement set to have onboard. That's it, virtually maintenance free, with only 1 moving part, the motor itself is relatively simple. On our boat, simplicity is often the defining factor for equipment selection.
This motor happens to be wired with separately excited field and armature (or SEPEX). It just means that we have a lot more control over the motors power output. We can tune it down to have more low end torque, or up to gain high end speed. This will allow us to customize the power output we need for our specific boat. A few other types of motors out there include, Series, and Permanent Magnet that only have one set of coils. Each type has its own benefits and drawbacks. But we won’t get into any of that here. If you would like to know even more about DC motors, click HERE.
we didn't buy new . . .because we received quotes from three different companies:Our entire set up . . . cost us just $1,400. As you can see by the above quotes, The motors and supplementary wiring are all in the $10,000 price range. That doesn't include a battery bank. Our motor and wiring cost us just under $500. Many of our components were refurbished, used or salvaged from boats being demolished, including some of the wiring. The battery bank and additional tools, like wire crimpers and cutters were another $500. So, for about $1000, we installed our Electro-Beke system. Our charging system ended up costing us only $400 thanks to a few amazing companies who joined our Uma Angels Family and supplied the major components. Find out more about our charging system in the "Charging" section below.
That Breaks down to:
$500 _ for the motor, controller and supplementary wiring.
$500 _ for the batteries.
$400 _ for the solar charger, panels and bimini modifications.





Power required . . .to push our boat and yours.

"'Hull speed' and 'redundant power' weren't something we worried about in our system."

Our motor has an 8hp rating. For those accustomed to gas or diesel engines, this may not seem like much power. But, the rating systems used for gas engines and electric motors are so different that comparing the numbers is almost meaningless. It comes down to the way the two types of motors use their energy and torque curves, which is quite different. According to the research we have done,  a 1 hp gas (or diesel) engine can push 500 pounds of displacement to hull speed in calm conditions. Now, the sources disagree a little here, but as a rule of thumb a 1hp electric motor can push about 3 to 3.5 times more displacement than its petrol equivalent. So a 1hp electric motor, drawing 750W, can push about 1500 pounds of displacement.
Our boat displaces 13,500 pounds. So, 13,500 / 1500 = 9hp electric motor.Now 1hp (of electric) draws about 750 watts. So, 9hp x 750W = 6.75kW electric motor.

Power | Speed | Range
  • Watts (x 100)
  • Range (kts)


Hover over any point to see exact data. For example, it is estimated that at 2.7 kts our motor will draw 600 watts (blue), giving us a range of 65 nautical miles (grey). This graph is based on a 14kW Lithium battery bank and a high end motor/controller combo.



At 48V, our motor should give us 6.3kW, which is slightly less than what we would need to push our boat to hull speed in calm conditions. But that is something we never intend to do. It takes a lot of power to push a displacement boat to hull speed. So the slower you go, the greater your range will be. However, it takes a long time to cover that distance. So, there is a sweet spot right around 4 kts (see graph to the right) where you make good headway, while being conservative with your power consumption. Of course, these are merely suggestions. Real world conditions are rarely perfect and adding 30% redundancy is often recommended by many motor companies.
We only use our motor for close quarter maneuvering where sailing isn't an option, like a marina, or tight anchorage, so "hull speed" and "redundant power" weren't something we worried about when designing our system. We often sail on and off the hook and choose places to anchor with few boats around.





Here are some great companies . . .that instal, sell, or can help answer your questions. Thunderstruck-EV and EV-West are staffed by great people who would love to hear from you and help answer any questions you may have. They both offer DIY kits that will suit the needs of any boat. They can also help source adequate battery banks, help with solar and even find local experts to assist with installations as well.
If you're looking for a more "plug and play" set up, check out the companies below. They represent the best in the industry and will gladly customize a set up for your specific needs and provide a detailed quote.


ELCO MOTORS
info@elcomotoryachts.com
1 (877) 411-3526




OCEANVOLT SEA
sales@oceanvolt.com
+358 10 325 5281




THOOSA
sreuther@annapolishybridmarine.com
+1 (410) 353-4348





ELECTRIC YACHT
mike@electricyachtssocal.com
1 (855) 339-2248




ELECTROPROP
electroprop@icloud.com
+1 (805) 455-8444









Want to learn even MORE...?Here is another great article about "How much electric power do you really need?
Still have questions?First, keep reading, we might answer them below. If not, head over to The Electro-Beke Forum and ask them there.




We're glad you made it this far and hope you learned something. We believe good ideas should be accessible to all. But, whatever you do... DON'T click the donate button below, because it might cause you to feel warm and fuzzy inside.










2016-6-29 15:43
INSTALLATION



Getting down to the Nuts and BoltsFor the complete parts list and wiring diagram, scroll down.

"...all we had to do was figure out how to get the motor to spin the prop."

There is a lot to talk about here. Hopefully you can follow along and not fall asleep. Like…I …….am…….right….nowwwww(yawn)www... SLAP!!! Ok! I’m awake. Where was I. Right, wiring.
With no degrees or formal training in electrical engineering (and no, they didn't teach us this stuff in architecture school), we had a lot of learning to do. Here we were, with a big heavy electric motor we knew nothing about, a boat it could theoretically push and the dream it would all work in the end. Now all we had to do was figure out how to get the motor to spin the prop. Sounded simple enough…right?
This step, of course took the longest. Since all our components were used, refurbished or salvaged, we had to test everything. We then started wiring the system in pieces in the salon and testing those. We then modified, adjusted, replaced and fabricated new systems and tested those. In all, it took us 9 months from motor purchase, to moving boat. Granted, not all of that time was devoted to installing the motor. We did have a few other projects on the side.
There are four main sections to our electric motor installation:
  • The motor
  • The motor controller
  • The batteries
  • The wires that connect it all together

The MotorThe motor we talked about previously. In all honesty, the main concern when sourcing a motor, is that it has enough power (watts) to push your boat to the speed you would like. The second concern is that it will work with the voltage of the components you choose. 12/24/36/48/72/96V are all common. The general rule, is that the higher the voltage, the fewer amps need to be pushed through the system to attain the same wattage. With this in mind, we have found that 72/96V systems tend to be more expensive than similar 48V set ups and, pushing a boat requires much less power that pushing a car. So, we’re not worried about running hundreds of amps through the system. Although rated at 36V, we run our motor at 48V so we can utilize available golf cart components for the rest of our systems, which are also inexpensive and abundantly available. For our boat, we designed the system to handle 150 amps. This would give us a theoretical output of just over 7kW (48V x 150A = 7.2 kW). If you were paying attention earlier, you might notice that our motor is rated for only 4.8kW at 36V. That is a continuous rating however. It can handle more, but cannot sustain it for long periods of time without some external cooling system. But, because there are times when we need all the power we can get, like stopping or backing down on the anchor, we decided to run our system with a higher amperage rating to accommodate that need.

Check out these photos of our final installation. (As usual, click to enlarge)

















The Motor ControllerThis little box is the heart of an electrical conversion. Similar to the head of an ICE (internal combustion engine), it controls the speed at which the electric motor spins. It does this by breaking up the power stream coming in from the batteries into tiny little pulses. This is called Pulse Width Modulation or PWM. There are many different types of controllers out there. In general, if you found a motor with standard voltage range, there is a controller on the market that will work for it. Some are more complex than others. Some offer built in regen capabilities, while other require computer programing and digital displays.
Our controller is a Curtis 1209B. It is designed to run a series motor, but since we got it for such a good deal, we made it work with ours by only using it to power the armature. See the wiring diagram below for more details. This controller is not fancy. It is weather proof, simple and robust. If you haven't figured it out by now, we love simple and robust.

The BatteriesWe will explain more below in the "BATTERIES" section. But for now, as long as you can create a battery bank that can be wired to produce the required voltage for the rest of your system, then you'll be fine. Also keep in mind how much space and weight the bank will require. Ours fit perfectly where our old fuel tank used to be and helped offset all the weight we lost by removing the tank and the old diesel motor. For typical lead acid banks,  at 36V you will need 3 -12v or 6-6V batteries. A 48V bank will require 4 or 8 respectively and so on. Although you can purchase massive deep cycle batteries with equally large aH ratings, we don't see the value of them since it is very difficult to maneuver them into tight spaces on a boat. Ideally, if you can afford them, a lithium bank would be the best for an electric motor conversion. We'll talk more about them in the "WHAT"S NEXT" section below.

The WiresAll our wires our tinned copper or "Marine Grade", although, we despise that term since it often just means "more expensive." The majority of which, we scrapped off of boats that were being demolished a the boatyard. What we couldn't find for free, we purchased from a local discount marine store that sold surplus marine components. This allowed us to spend very little for all the wiring.
For the most part it is all oversized, but when it comes to wire, the bigger the better. There are many useful online calculators that can help give an idea of what size wire will be appropriate for a given application. If your wiring is undersized, the system will lose some efficiency. For the most part this is of no concern. However, in extreme circumstances it will heat the wire to the point of melting things. For example, we undersized the cables connecting the motor controller to the armature, after a 15min full power test at the dock, we melted off the heat shrink tubing on the terminal lugs. It was quickly replaced by something much more beefy and hasn't been a problem since.

O yeah, One More Thing . . .the motor mount. Oops, almost forgot. Somehow we had to keep the motor inline with the transmission and securely mounted to the boat.  We built and re-built 6 different mounting brackets prior to the one we have now. Each being fabricated after hours of sketches and models were developed. We didn't have to modify the motor any or the transmission itself. However, we did modify the original transmission adapter plate that was used to attach it to the back of our Westerbeke.  We then securely attached the transmission to the hull of our boat. This allowed the motor to float in front of it, leaving the transmission to absorb any thrust from the prop.
We fabricated the brackets out of steal since it is easy to work with and weld. Once we settled on a final design, we epoxied and painted the brackets and motor with engine enamel. We're quite pleased with the final outcome. All the exposed metal is protected from corrosion and it is very securely mounted to the old engine pan.
In tandem to our bracket iterations, were several attempts to connect the motor to the transmission. Our early versions were poorly aligned causing horrible vibrations that in turn produced noise. Noise was something we were trying to avoid by going electric. The final design paired two identical sprockets, connected inline by a #50 double roller chain. This seems to work quite well. It allows for small misalignments and produces the least amount of noise. There are of course many other options out there, and someday we may experiment with them. But, for now, this set up works for us.




安装
获取到螺母和螺栓


有关完整的零件清单和接线图,向下滚动。
“......我们所要做的就是弄清楚如何使电机旋转的道具。”
有很多谈论在这里。希望你能跟着和无法入睡。就像......我...... .AM ...... .right ... .nowwwww(打哈欠)WWW ... SLAP!好!我很清醒。在哪里一对,接线。


由于没有学位或电子工程专业的正规培训(不,他们没有告诉我们,在建筑学校这个东西),我们有很多做学习的。下面我们分别与我们一无所知笨重的大电机,船理论上可以推动与梦想,将在结束所有工作。现在我们要做的就是弄清楚如何使电机旋转的道具。听起来很简单,对吧?


这一步当然了最长的。由于我们的所有组件都使用,翻新或回收的,我们必须检验一切。然后,我们开始布线件系统在沙龙和测试这些。然后,我们修改,调整,更换和制造新的系统和测试过这些。总之,我们花了从电机采购9个月来移动船。当然,并非所有的时间专门安装电机。我们确实有一个侧面的几个其他项目。


还有我们的电动马达安装四个主要部分:
马达
电动机控制器
电池
连接到一起的电线



电机


马达我们谈到以前。在所有诚实,采购电机的主要问题时,是它有足够的功率(瓦)到你的船推到你想要的速度。第二个问题是,它会与您选择的组件的电压下工作。 12月24日/ 36 /72分之48/ 96V都是常见的。一般的规则是,电压越高,越少安培需要通过系统推以达到相同的功率。考虑到这一点,我们发现,72 / 96V系统往往比同类48V集跌宕,推船更昂贵的需要更少的动力推动一辆汽车。所以,我们并不担心在系统运行数百安培。虽然额定功率为36V,我们运行在48V发动机,所以我们可以利用可用的高尔夫球车组件我们的系统,这也是价格低廉,来源广泛的其余部分。对于我们的船,我们设计的系统,以把手部150安培。这将使我们刚刚超过7千瓦(48V 150A点ˉx= 7.2千瓦)的理论输出。如果你先前关注的是,您可能会注意到,我们的电机额定36V时仅4.8KW。这不过是一个连续的评级。它可以处理更多,但不能维持它对于没有某种外部冷却系统长时间。但是,因为有的时候,我们需要所有我们能得到的权力,比如停止或让步的锚,我们决定来运行我们的系统具有更高的电流额定值,以适应这一需求。





看看这些照片我们最后的安装。
(像往常一样,点击放大)
20160517_180349.jpg
20160517_180429.jpg
20160517_180501.jpg
20160517_180536.jpg
20160517_180631.jpg



马达控制器


这个小盒子是一个电转换的心脏。类似于一个ICE(内燃机)的头部时,它控制在该电动机旋转的速度。它打破了由电池来在成微小的脉冲功率流做到这一点。这被称为脉冲宽度调制或PWM。有许多不同类型的控制器在那里的。在一般情况下,如果发现与标准电压范围内的电机,有在市场上的控制器,将用于它的工作。有些人比其他人更复杂。有些提供内置的再生能力,而其他需要计算机编程和数字显示器。


我们的控制器是柯蒂斯1209B。它的目的是运行一系列的电机,但因为我们得到了这样一个很好的协议,我们做到了只用它来驱动电枢与我们合作。详情请参见下面的线路图。该控制器并不花哨。它是防风雨的,简单的和健壮。如果你现在还没有想通了,我们的爱情简单而强大的。





电池


我们将在“电池”一节中进一步解释如下。但现在,只要你可以创建一个可以连接到生产为您的系统的其他部分所需要的电压的电池组,那么你会没事的。同时请记住,银行将有多少空间和重量的要求。我们配合得非常完美,正是我们以前油箱曾经是并且帮助抵消所有我们失去了通过去除箱和旧柴油发动机的重量。对于典型的铅酸银行,在36V则需要3 -12V或6-6V电池。 48V的银行将需要4或8个分别等。虽然你可以用同样大的收视率啊大量购买深循环电池,我们没有看到他们的价值,因为它是非常困难的他们机动到在船上狭小的空间。理想情况下,如果你能负担得起,锂银行将是最好的一个电动马达转换。我们将更多地谈论他们“做什么”S NEXT“的部分。





电线


我们所有的电线我们镀锡铜或“海洋级”,虽然,我们鄙视这个词,因为它往往只是意味着“更贵。”其中大部分,我们报废掉,正在拆除一个船厂的船。我们无法找到免费的东西,我们从出售多余的海洋部分当地海洋打折商店购买。这使我们能够花很少的所有接线。


在大多数情况下它是所有过大,但是当涉及到线,越大越好。有许多有用的在线计算器,可以帮助给出什么规格线材都适用于给定应用的想法。如果你的布线不够大,系统会失去一些效率。在大多数情况下,这是不关心的。然而,在极端的情况下,将加热丝的熔化物的点。例如,我们矮小连接电机控制器电枢电缆,在码头一个15分钟全功率试验后,我们融化了的接线片热缩管。它很快就被一些更健壮的替代,一直没有因为问题。





Ø是啊,还有一件事。 。 。


电机坐骑。
哎呀,差点忘了。不知怎的,我们必须保持内嵌电机与变速器和牢固地安装在船上。我们建立和再建6个不同的安装支架一个我们现在有之前。被开发草图和模型小时后每一个被制造。我们没有修改任何发动机或变速器本身。但是,我们确实修改用于将其附加到我们Westerbeke背面的原始传输转接板。然后我们牢固地连接到我们的船的船体的传输。这使得电机浮在它的前面,而使传输到吸收来自支座任何推力。


我们制造的括号出偷,因为它很容易与和焊接工作。一旦我们选定了最终的设计中,我们用环氧树脂和彩绘支架和电机引擎珐琅。我们很满意最后的结果。所有暴露的金属被保护不受腐蚀,它是非常牢固地安装在旧发动机锅。


串联到我们的托架迭代,几个尝试电动机连接到传输。我们早期的版本是一致不佳导致,反过来产生的噪声振动可怕。噪音是我们试图避免去电的东西。最终设计成对两个相同的链轮,由50#双滚子链连接的内联。这似乎工作得很好。它允许小偏差,并产生噪声的量最少。当然还有很多其他选择了那里,总有一天我们会与他们进行实验。但是,就目前而言,这种建立为我们工作。








2016-6-29 16:03
WIRING



WIRING DIAGRAMIncluding complete parts list.Here it is. The schematic you've all been requesting. You may notice that it is drawn for a direct drive system, where the motor is used to electronically shift from forward to reverse. We have since installed our motor in front of our old transmission and no longer need the Fwd/Rev circuit. However, since the majority of set ups out there use the motor to achieve Fwd/Rev, we wanted to show our diagram depicting a similar set up. If you end up with a Series or PM motor, you should be able to modify this diagram by excluding the 12V bank to motor connections. However, many of the components, like the contactors, require a 12V supply to operate their solenoids. So you will still need a 12V accessory bank. This is often the house bank of a boat, since many smaller boats run 12V house banks anyway.


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Parts ListBelow are the components we used, why we chose them, where to buy them and pictures of them installed in our boat. If you didn't figure it out already, their letters correspond to the diagram above.  




(A) - 10A FUSEBuy one HERE.


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This is a simple automotive fuse held in an inline fuse holder. It protects the ignition circuit wiring from drawing too much amperage in the event of a short.





(B) - Key SwitchBuy one HERE. The key switch is mainly for security. It can be replaced by a simple on/off switch, but taking the key out will slow down someone trying to leave with your boat, without your permission.





(C) - FWD/REV SwitchBuy one HERE. This switch is only needed if you are planning a direct drive system. We no longer have need for it, but also have yet to rewire our system after we installed the transmission. It is a basic rocker switch with an on/off/on rocker and 6 pins on the back. This allows both positive and negative wires to be switched. We also wired ours so that it will shut off the contactors if switched accidentally while the throttle was engaged. That way it wouldn't cause any damage to the motor.





(D) - ThrottleBuy one HERE.


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The throttle tells the motor controller how much power to send the motor. We chose this one because it allowed us to keep our existing throttle lever and cable mounted on the steering pedestal. It also has a micro switch that we use to close the secondary contactor (N) on the 48V side and the Fwd/Rev contactor (E) on the 12V side when the throttle is pushed forward. This ensures no voltage is going through the system until the throttle is actually engaged.





(E) - FWD/REV ContactorBuy one HERE.


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This, again, is not needed if you, like us, install the motor with a transmission that handles Fwd/Rev. However, if you are planning a direct drive set up, and the controller you chose doesn't have a Fwd/Rev circuit, then this is a necessary evil. The one we used, we scrapped off an dead windlass. It works great for the 12V circuit and are easy to find.





(F) - Main Battery Switch Buy one HERE.


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Our boat came with this switch installed already. We simply rewired it slightly to accommodate our systems. For now we only use the "Battery 1" and "off" settings. However, if we eventually install a DC-DC converter to bring our 48V bank down to 12V we could wire it to the "battery 2" position as a back up battery bank.   





(G) - Positive Buss BarBuy one HERE.


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Pretty basic here. A buss bar is used to connect multiple leads to the same source. This one is beefy to handle high amperage on the positive side of the 12V circuit.





(H) - Negative Buss BarBuy one HERE. Same as the Positive buss bar above. However this one is tied into the 48V circuit.





(J & M) - ShuntBuy one HERE.


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These are pretty standard. They are required to hook up an amp meter and measure how much amperage is running through your system. Often an amp meter will come with its own shunt. They sample the current so that not all 100+ amps are running through a meter. That would be very dangerous. Just make sure the shunt and meter are rated for the same mV, usually 50mV or 100mV.



(K & U) - Main FuseBuy one HERE.


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These fuses protect the wiring in the system. The closer to the battery bank the better. The fuse on the 48V side is rated for 200A and the 12V fuse is rated for 80A. These are rated for amperage only and can usually take a variety of voltages. Both fuses and holders are identical. They just have different ratings.





(L) - Primary Contactor Buy one HERE.  


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This contactor is wired to the main key switch. It is a bit redundant but shuts off any power from the controller, motor and gauges. It acts more like a battery shut off.





(N) - Secondary ContactorBuy one HERE.  


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This contactor supplies the motor controller with the power it needs to run the motor. It is also the one that is bypassed by (T) the pre-charge resistor. Contactors are just big remote activated switches. Like breakers, they activate very fast to eliminate high amperage arching.





(P) - Motor Controller Buy one HERE.


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The motor controller we chose works for our application, but there are many out there to choose from. Do your own research here before deciding on what motor you will use. We happened to get a sweet deal on ours so we made it work with our motor. Our system would be less complicated if we used a controller designed for a SEPEX motor. The Curtis 1209B that we have is designed for a Series motor, but we make it work.





(Q) - DC Motor (SEPEX)Sorry, you'll have to find this one on your own.


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Since another motor like ours has yet to show up again for sale online, we can't really recommend the same one.  However, the basic idea is finding a motor with the appropriate wattage to push your boat. Refer to our "Power Requirements" section to get an idea of what that might be. Then just make sure it will produce the desired power at a voltage that you would like to work with. We recommend 48V for most applications for reasons described previously.





(R) -  Amp MeterBuy one HERE. These attach to the shunt (J & M) and show you how many amps are running through the system. Depending on where it is placed it can either read the amps being drawn from the battery bank or the amps going to the motor. We decided to read the amps being drawn from our batteries.





(S) - Volt MeterBuy one HERE. This meter does not require a shunt. As long as the negative lead makes its way back to the negative buss bar, the positive lead can be attached at any point along the circuit. We chose again to read the battery bank voltage with ours. However, it can also be place on the motor to read the voltage there instead.





(T) - Pre-charge Resistor They look like THIS.


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There is no specific item to show you here. Each controller and each set up is different. But, I can tell you that the pre-charge resistor is very important. It by-passes the main contactors and supplies the motor controller with the power it needs to pre-charge, so its ready when the main contactor is switched on and all that amperage comes rushing in.







Want to learn even MORE...?Make sure you check out SV Bianka's page for another detailed blog about his electric motor installation.
For another great article about all the other stuff that goes into a motor installation, you might want to read "Balance of System". The article is for an electric motorcycle set up, but the basics are similar enough.  
Still have questions?First, keep reading, we might answer them below. If not, head over to The Electro-Beke Forum and ask them there.




We believe that good ideas and useful information should be available to everyone and have intentionally refrained from selling our work or ideas so it can be shared freely. However, if you found this information useful, please donate to The Electro-Beke Fund below and help us continue.











看完给点钱,你用上了人家技术更应该给点钱哈(我帮忙吆呼的呵呵)http://www.sailinguma.com





接线
接线图

其中包括完整的零部件清单。
这里是。你一直在请求示意图。您可能会注意到它绘制的直接驱动系统,其中电动机用于从电子向前移动逆转。我们自安装了我们的电机我们的老传输前,不再需要正转/反转电路。但是,由于大多数设置窗口在那里用电机实现正转/反转,我们要展示我们的图描绘了类似的设立。如果你结束了一个系列或PM电机,你应该能够通过排除12V银行电机连接修改此图。然而,许多组件,如接触器,需要12V电源来操作他们的螺线管。所以,你仍然需要一个12V的配件库。这通常是一个船的内部银行,因为许多小船跑12V家银行反正。
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零件清单

下面是安装在我们的船,我们使用,我们为什么选择他们,哪里可以买到他们的组件和他们的照片。如果你没有搞清楚不已,他们的字母对应上面的图。
(A) - 10A保险丝

购买一个在这里。
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这是一个内嵌保险丝座举行了简单的汽车保险丝。它保护点火电路配线在很短的情况下,消耗太多电流。
(B) - 钥匙开关

购买一个在这里。
钥匙开关主要是为了安全。它可以通过一个简单的替换ON / OFF开关,但服用抠出将放缓有人试图用你的船离开,未经您的许可。
(C) - FWD / REV开关

购买一个在这里。
如果您打算直接驱动系统时,才需要此开关。我们不再需要它,而且还没有我们安装了传输之后重新布线我们的系统。它是一个基本的摇臂开关与背面的开/关/开摇杆和6针。这使得要被切换的积极和消极的电线。我们也连线我们的,这样,如果不小心打开,而油门从事它将关闭接触。这样,它不会导致向马达的任何损害。
(D) - 油门

购买一个在这里。
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油门告诉电机控制器多大的实力派电机。我们选择了这一个,因为它使我们能够保持我们现有的油门杆和安装在方向盘底座电缆。它也有,我们使用的12V侧的侧48V和正转/反转接触器(E)关闭二次接触器(N)当油门向前推一个微动开关。这将确保没有电压会通过该系统,直到油门实际从事。
(E) - FWD / REV接触

购买一个在这里。
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这又是不是如果你和我们一样,拥有处理正向/反向传输安装马达所需。但是,如果您打算直接驱动设置,并且您选择不具有正向/反向电路控制器,那么这是一个必要之恶。我们使用的一种,我们报废掉的死卷扬机。它的伟大工程的12V电路很容易找到。
(F) - 主电池开关

购买一个在这里。
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我们的船来了与此开关已安装。我们只是重新布线稍微适应我们的系统。现在,我们只使用“电池1”和“关”的设置。但是,如果我们最终安装一个DC-DC转换器,使我们的银行48V降至12V,我们可以其连接到“电池2”的位置作为备用电池组。
(G) - 巴斯正面酒吧

购买一个在这里。
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非常基本的在这里。汇流条被用于多个引脚连接到同一来源。这一个是结实的处理上12V电路的积极的一面高安培。
(H) - 负巴斯酒吧

购买一个在这里。
同上阳性汇流条。然而,这一个是绑到48V电路。
(J&M) - 分流

购买一个在这里。
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这些都是相当标准。他们必须将计算机与安培表和测量有多少电流是通过你的系统运行。通常,一个安培表将带着自己的分流。因此,并不是所有的100+安培通过一个仪表运行他们采样电流。这将是非常危险的。只要确保分流和仪表的额定相同毫伏,通常为50mV或100mV的。
(K&U) - 主保险丝

购买一个在这里。
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这些熔断器保护系统中的布线。到电池组越接近越好。在48V侧熔断器的额定电流为200A和12V的熔断器的额定电流为80A。这些的额定仅安培数,通常可采取各种电压。这两个保险丝和持有人是相同的。他们只是有不同的等级。
(L) - 主接触器

购买一个在这里。
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该接触器被连接到主钥匙开关。这是一个有点多余,但切断从控制器,电机和仪表的任何权力。它的作用更像是一个电池关闭。
(N) - 二次接触

购买一个在这里。
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这与接触它需要运行电机电源电机控制器。它也是由(T)的预充电电阻器旁路的之一。接触器只是大远程激活的开关。断路器一样,他们启动速度非常快,以消除高电流拱。
(P) - 电机控制器

购买一个在这里。
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马达控制器,我们选择的作品为我们的应用程序,但也有许多在那里可供选择。决定你会用什么电机前在这里做自己的研究。我们碰巧得到一个甜蜜的交易上我们,所以我们使它与我们的电机工作。如果我们使用设计用于SEPEX马达控制器我们的系统将是较不复杂。柯蒂斯1209B,我们已经设计了系列电机,但我们使它发挥作用。
(Q) - 直流电动机(SEPEX)

对不起,你必须找到这一个你自己的。
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因为像我们这样的另一台电机尚未发售再次显示在线,我们实在不建议相同。但是,其基本思想是找到与适当的功率来推动你的船的马达。请参考我们的“电源要求”部分,以得到什么,可能是一个想法。然后,只需确保它会产生所需要的功率,你想一起工作的电压。我们建议48V为前面所述的原因,大多数应用程序。
(R) - 安培计

购买一个在这里。
这些连接到分流(J&M),并显示有多少安培通过系统运行。取决于它被置于它可以读取来自电池组或将要在电机的安培正在绘制的安培。我们决定从阅读我们的电池被绘制安培。
(S) - 电压表

购买一个在这里。
该电表不需要分流。只要负引线使得其返回到负汇流条的方式,正极引线可以在沿着电路的任何点处连接。我们再次选择读与我们的电池组电压。然而,它也可以是代替在电机上读取的电压有代替。
(T), - 预充电电阻器

他们是这样的。
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没有你在这里展示特定项目。每个控制器,每个设置都是不同的。但是,我可以告诉你,预充电电阻器是非常重要的。它通过绕过主接触器和它需要预充电电源马达控制器,所以其准备当主接触器被打开,所有的电流自带在冲。
想要了解更多的...?
请确保你对他的电动马达安装另一个详细博客看看SV Bianka的页面。

有关所有其他的东西另一个伟大的一篇文章,进入一个电机安装,您可能需要阅读“系统的平衡”。这篇文章是为电动摩托车成立,但基础知识有足够的相似。



还有疑问?

首先,请继续阅读,我们可以在下面回答这些问题。如果没有,头向电比克论坛,并要求他们在那里。
我们相信,好的想法和有用的信息,应该是提供给大家,并有意出售我们的工作或想法,因此它可以被自由共享忍住了。

但是,如果您发现此信息有用,请捐赠给下面的电比克基金,并帮助我们继续。
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