Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
野蛮人的日子：冲浪生活
William Finnegan
威廉·芬尼根
A deeply rendered self-portrait of a lifelong surfer by the acclaimed New Yorker writer
广受赞誉的《纽约客》作家对终身冲浪者的深刻肖像
Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships annealed in challenging waves.
《野蛮人的日子》是威廉·芬尼根（William Finnegan）关于迷恋，复杂结界的回忆录。冲浪只是一种运动。首先，这完全是另外一回事：美丽的成瘾，苛刻的学习过程，道德上的危险消遣，生活方式。Finnegan在加利福尼亚和夏威夷长大，从小就开始冲浪。他在世界各地追逐海浪，在南太平洋，澳大利亚，亚洲，非洲徘徊多年。他是一个书呆子男孩，然后是一个过度冒险的年轻人，后来他成为一名杰出的作家和战争记者。野蛮人时代将我们带入了陌生的世界，其中一些就在我们的鼻子底下–纽约和旧金山的海岸。它使读者沉浸在充满挑战的波涛中的紧密的男性友谊的前卫友情中。
Finnegan shares stories of life in a whitesonly gang in a tough school in Honolulu even while his closest friend was a Hawaiian surfer. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. He and a buddy, their knapsacks crammed with reef charts, bushwhack through Polynesia. They discover, while camping on an uninhabited island in Fiji, one of the world’s greatest waves. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he becomes an improbable anthropologist: unpicking the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissecting the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, navigating the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity.
芬尼根（Finnegan）在檀香山一所艰难的学校里的一个白人帮派中分享生活故事，即使他的最亲密的朋友是夏威夷冲浪者也是如此。他向我们展示了一个因1960年代的社会动荡而被儿童和成人颠倒的世界。他详细介绍了著名的海浪的复杂性和他自己对海浪的学徒制。年轻时的愚蠢行为-他在毛伊岛上骑着巨大的Honolua湾时掉落了LSD-充满了卑鄙的幽默。他和一个伙伴，他们的背包装满了礁石图，在波利尼西亚肆虐。他们在斐济一个无人岛上露营时发现了世界上最大的海浪之一。芬尼根（Finnegan）的旅行将他带到更远的地方，因此他成为了一位不可思议的人类学家：揭开萨摩亚渔村风景如画的朴素，剖析汤加与美国人和日本人互动的性政治，在几乎死于疟疾的同时，在印尼的黑市中航行。在整个过程中，他一直在冲浪，并带着令人难以置信的空前清澈的旅程载着读者。
Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little understood art. Today, Finnegan’s surfing life is undiminished. Frantically juggling work and family, he chases his enchantment through Long Island ice storms and obscure corners of Madagascar.
《野蛮人的日子》是一部古老的冒险故事，是一部智力自传，一部社会历史，一部文学路演电影，以及对一门严格的，鲜为人知的艺术逐渐掌握的非凡探索。如今，芬尼根的冲浪生活丝毫没有减弱。他疯狂地忙于工作和家庭，他在长岛的冰暴和马达加斯加的corner角中追逐着自己的魅力。
Year:2015
年：2015年
Language:english
语言：英语
Pages:464
页数：464
ISBN 10:1594203474
ISBN 13:9781594203473
国际标准书号10：1594203474
国际标准书号13：9781594203473
File: PDF7.59 MB
文件：PDF7.59 MB
Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
野蛮人的日子：冲浪生活
William Finnegan
威廉·芬尼根
A deeply rendered self-portrait of a lifelong surfer by the acclaimed New Yorker writer
广受赞誉的《纽约客》作家对终身冲浪者的深刻肖像
Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships annealed in challenging waves.
《野蛮人的日子》是威廉·芬尼根（William Finnegan）关于迷恋，复杂结界的回忆录。冲浪只是一种运动。首先，这完全是另外一回事：美丽的成瘾，苛刻的学习过程，道德上的危险消遣，生活方式。Finnegan在加利福尼亚和夏威夷长大，从小就开始冲浪。他在世界各地追逐海浪，在南太平洋，澳大利亚，亚洲，非洲徘徊多年。他是一个书呆子男孩，然后是一个过度冒险的年轻人，后来他成为一名杰出的作家和战争记者。野蛮人时代将我们带入了陌生的世界，其中一些就在我们的鼻子底下–纽约和旧金山的海岸。它使读者沉浸在充满挑战的波涛中的紧密的男性友谊的前卫友情中。
Finnegan shares stories of life in a whitesonly gang in a tough school in Honolulu even while his closest friend was a Hawaiian surfer. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. He and a buddy, their knapsacks crammed with reef charts, bushwhack through Polynesia. They discover, while camping on an uninhabited island in Fiji, one of the world’s greatest waves. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he becomes an improbable anthropologist: unpicking the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissecting the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, navigating the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity.
芬尼根（Finnegan）在檀香山一所艰难的学校里的一个白人帮派中分享生活故事，即使他的最亲密的朋友是夏威夷冲浪者也是如此。他向我们展示了一个因1960年代的社会动荡而被儿童和成人颠倒的世界。他详细介绍了著名的海浪的复杂性和他自己对海浪的学徒制。年轻时的愚蠢行为-他在毛伊岛上骑着巨大的Honolua湾时掉落了LSD-充满了卑鄙的幽默。他和一个伙伴，他们的背包装满了礁石图，在波利尼西亚肆虐。他们在斐济一个无人岛上露营时发现了世界上最大的海浪之一。芬尼根（Finnegan）的旅行将他带到更远的地方，因此他成为了一位不可思议的人类学家：揭开萨摩亚渔村风景如画的朴素，剖析汤加与美国人和日本人互动的性政治，在几乎死于疟疾的同时，在印尼的黑市中航行。在整个过程中，他一直在冲浪，并带着令人难以置信的空前清澈的旅程载着读者。
Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little understood art. Today, Finnegan’s surfing life is undiminished. Frantically juggling work and family, he chases his enchantment through Long Island ice storms and obscure corners of Madagascar.
《野蛮人的日子》是一部古老的冒险故事，是一部智力自传，一部社会历史，一部文学路演电影，以及对一门严格的，鲜为人知的艺术逐渐掌握的非凡探索。如今，芬尼根的冲浪生活丝毫没有减弱。他疯狂地忙于工作和家庭，他在长岛的冰暴和马达加斯加的corner角中追逐着自己的魅力。
Year:2015
年：2015年
Language:english
语言：英语
Pages:464
页数：464
ISBN 10:1594203474
ISBN 13:9781594203473
国际标准书号10：1594203474
国际标准书号13：9781594203473
File: PDF7.59 MB
文件：PDF7.59 MB
